Walking the Moors in Bronte Country

Hidden away in the moors and sheep country of the Pennine Hills in southern Yorkshire is Haworth, a lovely old village of dark stone houses, and stone roofs. Birthplace of the Brontёs: Branwell, Charlotte, Emily, and Anne, the gray of the buildings is offset in late summer by a kaleidoscope of flowers cascading from window boxes.  Dales Way 036

My friend Silke and I had come to pay our respects to the Brontёs and to spend a day walking the moors described so vividly by the sisters. We had decided to test our boots, and our endurance with a day hiking on the moors, before facing the real challenge which had brought us to England, a week-long hike on the Dales Way about an hour north of Haworth.

We spent the night at Haworth Old Hall, a bustling village pub dating back to the 16th century, with several rooms for rent.  1 Haworth Old HallBreakfast was at 8:00, brought to our rooms by our charming host, Johnny. Unshaven, and still in his pajamas, he was blurry eyed, but cheerful. A simple breakfast of porridge, toast, and coffee, set us up for the day. We set off for Top Withins, the abandoned building which was, according to local legend, the site that had inspired Wuthering Heights. From Top Withins we would walk across Stanbury Moor to a nearby village, and from there back to Haworth.

At the top of Sun Street, which looks pretty much as it did when the Brontes lived in Haworth, we rounded the corner to an even narrower street that took us past the Brontё parsonage, much grander than I had imagined, and then along a narrow lane, through a gate and onto a hillside of open meadow. At the bottom of the meadow, we passed through a kissing stile, a complicated u-shaped metal pass-through in the stone wall, with a tricky gate latch. Once through the stile, we consulted our map. Haworth Moor was at the end of Cemetery Road, through another gate and over a cattle grid. Clumps of heather spread a purple haze over the hillside. Dales Way 041 The moor rose on our left, a great empty curve along the horizon. It was a perfect morning, vast dome of sky, nice breeze, and the sun already warm on our backs. A narrow footpath led down through a stand of gnarled trees to a small creek, or beck. We crossed on a low bridge made of slabs of gray stone. Then we began to climb out of the valley, passing through squeeze-stiles, over step-stiles, always among the grazing sheep. The path was narrow and steep, eroded in places to a ditch. Rough roots tripped the unwary and loose stones slid away under our feet. It was noon by the time we reached Top Withins, a stone ruin set on the brow of the highest hill with a lone tree standing guard.  Dales Way 042We sat down to eat our lunch and enjoy the view spread out below dotted with sheep, yellow wheat fields, stone walls, and the darker moors that rolled away into the distance.

Before we had finished eating, thunder heads appeared on the horizon.I reluctantly pulled my boots back on and we started across Stanbury Moor. I found going downhill difficult. Before long the soles of my feet were burning like grilled sausages. We reached Stanbury about 2:00, and stumbled on a cozy little pub called The Friendly with a sunny front room, and a couple of old codgers enjoying their afternoon pints. A cheerful lady barkeep brought us two enormous bowls of coffee, and we chatted about our day on the moors, and their dire weather predictions for the weekend.

Revived, we set off down the main street toward Haworth, crossing a  bridge past the reservoir we had seen earlier in the day from a higher elevation. Across the bridge we found a bridle path that led up the hill to Haworth and by 4:30 we had reached the top of Sun Street again. Lyn at photo shop 003Before starting back down the hill to Old Haworth Inn, we stopped in a charming tea room for some homemade ice cream, a very satisfying way to end the day.  We had passed our first test .

About lynback58

Lyndon is a writer and independent researcher. Her articles, poems, book reviews, and short stories have appeared in Friends Journal, Pendle Hill Publications, Quaker History, Poetry Ink 2013, Forge 2015, and Gemini Magazine. 2015
Image | This entry was posted in Travel Diaries. Bookmark the permalink.

14 Responses to Walking the Moors in Bronte Country

  1. Maria Ghisu says:

    Congratulations on your Blog Lyndon. Your piece on “Walking the Moors”, is so well written; but it’s your, “Letting Go and Hoping” article, that demonstrates just how far your talents will take you! Your style brings the process of writing up close and personal and your ability to deliver does the rest!

    Keep blogging.


  2. martha says:

    Lovely portrait of your day. And congrats on your blog!!! Keep it up.


  3. I’ve been surfing online greater than 3 hours these days,
    yet I by no means discovered any attention-grabbing article like yours.
    It’s pretty worth sufficient for me. In my opinion, if all webmasters and bloggers made excellent content as you did, the web will likely be a lot more helpful than ever before.


  4. Good info. Lucky me I recently found your blog by accident
    (stumbleupon). I’ve book marked it for later!


  5. Marianne says:

    I no siquiera conozco el camino Terminé hasta aquí , embargo creí
    este post solía ser gran. I no cuenta usted puede ser embargo ciertamente eres ir a un famoso conocido blogger para los que no
    son ya. ¡Salud!


  6. Wow, that’s what I was searching for, what a data! existing here at this web site, thanks
    admin of this website.


  7. It is really a great and helpful piece of info. I am glad that you just shared this useful information with us.
    Please keep us informed like this. Thank you for sharing.


  8. cool hoodies says:

    Thanks for finally talking about >Walking the Moors in Bronte Country | On My Own <Loved it!


  9. tshirt cafe says:

    Thanks for your personal marvelous posting! I quite enjoyed reading it,
    you may be a great author. I will make sure to bookmark your blog and will come back in the foreseeable future.

    I want to encourage that you continue your great work, have a nice holiday weekend!


  10. I think the admin of this website is genuinely working hard in support of his site,
    because here every stuff is quality based stuff.


  11. Hi, after reading this remarkable paragraph i am as well cheerful to share my knowledge here with mates.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s